As a laughably strong wind blew me off the narrow boardwalk above First Bog in Pu’u Kukui Preserve I sank calf deep into black mud.  Some experts estimate that each foot of bog here represents about 10,000 years of vegetative growth, so I had just stepped back—literally— into prehistory.  Which seemed appropriate in this eerie landscape reminiscent of something out of Jurassic Park.  And given that barely any...